My vote is also for the lack of the anti-aliasing filter… not sure why but rarely does a camera NOT have that unless you specifically buy that model, and we’ve not really seen this nifty phenomenon before!
Any way you can go back to the spot in similar conditions? I’d see if I could borrow a Nikon from a friend that has the filter and shoot both that day. I would also record 60fps video on your camera so you can slow it down and see what’s moving/arcing/jumping, lol. You always want your shutter speed in video to be double of the framerate you are shooting, so in your case it’d be 1/125 sec, then you pick as F-stop (5.6-8 should work in this case) and adjust ISO to get the right exposure. It’d be interesting to compare that to the images.
Side note, those are the settings you want for ANY video work if anyone does that… shutter is double your FrameRate (I shoot 24FPS so I use 1/50), pick the aperture to fit the art (2.0 for a portrait, etc), and adjust ISO for exposure. If I want to shoot f2.8 in bright sunlight I can’t achieve that with a 1/50 shutter speed so I pull out an ND filter or even a CPL in a pinch. You can’t change shutter speed. I know, off topic, just wanted to explain why I mentioned the settings above.