If you’re not an NPN member yet, you can join our free tier to ask questions in the AMA or to get the full benefits of what we offer; you can join here.
Hi everyone! I’m Stewart Wood, a macro and wildlife photographer with a passion for capturing the tiny, overlooked details of nature. I started my journey focusing on macro photography, where I’ve spent countless hours peering into the fascinating world of insects and spiders. Recently, I’ve been branching out into wildlife photography with the help of OM Systems, and it’s been an exciting adventure.
When I’m not behind the camera, I’m busy creating content for my YouTube channel, where I share tips, tricks, and my love for photography with a fantastic community of like-minded creatives. I’m also lucky enough to collaborate with some amazing companies that keep my passion alive and my kit growing!
Feel free to ask me anything – whether it’s about gear, techniques, my favourite photography experiences, or the behind-the-scenes of running a photography business and YouTube channel. Let’s dive in and chat!
Please only ask one question by replying to this topic a single time, using the “Ask a question” button at the bottom. It’s also helpful to scroll to the bottom while reading the topic to make sure nobody else has asked the same question first before you ask.
Please don’t ask more than one question so everyone gets a chance.
Please do not reply to anyone else’s post. The only purpose of replies on this topic is to ask the author one question. Please create a new topic if you’d like to discuss a related topic in more detail.
Posts not following these rules may be removed by moderators to keep the Q&A flowing smoothly. Thank you!
I love the howl photo. I am aiming to take pictures like this. Is there any specific equipment needed or a zoom lens and some post-processing techniques are enough? I have a micro 4/3 sensor with a 40-150 + 2x lens which makes for 300mm with a crop factor that makes it 600mm. Thanks
Thanks for the time to do this AMA! I’m amazed at the macro shots and have done some myself but I’m wondering how you get such wonderful DOF. Are some of these in the studio and focus stacked?
Thank you! I’m glad you like the Little Owl photo. That shot was actually one of my first wildlife images taken with the OM-D E-M1 Mark II and the 300mm f/4 Pro lens. What really makes the image stand out is the natural framing—I was able to photograph through a bush, which created a great foreground frame, adding depth and atmosphere to the shot.
Your setup with the Micro Four Thirds system and the 40-150mm + 2x teleconverter (effectively 600mm full-frame equivalent) is absolutely capable of capturing similar shots. The key elements are having a long enough focal length to isolate your subject and developing strong composition and post-processing skills. A zoom lens is really all you need, combined with good field technique and some thoughtful editing to enhance details, contrast, and mood.
Keep practising, and I’m sure you’ll capture some stunning wildlife moments!
Depth of field is one of the biggest challenges in macro photography, and the key to achieving such sharp detail is focus stacking. The jumping spider image is a studio shot, where I have full control over lighting and setup, but most of my other macro images are taken in the field. To get that incredible depth, I capture multiple images at different focus points—sometimes as many as 100 shots—and then stack them together in post-processing using Helicon Focus.
One trick for photographing insects in the wild is going out at 2 AM when it’s too cold for them to move. This allows me to take my time and capture all the frames needed for stacking without the subject shifting between shots. It’s a challenging but rewarding technique that makes a huge difference in the final image.
Hope that helps, and keep experimenting with macro—there’s always something new to discover!
Thank you! I’m glad you love the background for the damselflies photos. The background was created in-camera using a gerbera daisy placed behind the subject. The vibrant colours you see come from the daisy and it is also refracting through the dew drops, adding a natural and artistic effect to the image.
This technique works well in macro photography, especially when working with subjects covered in droplets. By carefully positioning a colourful background behind the subject and adjusting your depth of field, you can create striking, almost surreal compositions without relying on post-processing.
Hope that helps, and thanks for the great question!
Hi Stewart, thanks so much for doing this. I’ve used extension tubes in the past, with ok results. I now have a Fuji X-H2 and thinking about getting the Venus Optics Laowa 65mm macro for it. Your thoughts? Also, insects make great subjects but do you do any flowers? How many images would I need for a rose, for instance, to stack?
Thanks for your question! The Venus Optics Laowa 65mm is an excellent choice for macro photography—Laowa lenses are known for their sharpness and high magnification, making them a great option for capturing fine details. It should pair well with your Fuji X-H2 for detailed macro work.
As for focus stacking a rose, the number of images needed will depend on your focus bracketing step size. My general approach is to take as many shots as possible because you can always delete excess images later, but if you don’t take enough, you’ll have to redo the entire shoot. For a flower like a rose, where petals curve in and out, a deeper stack may be necessary to ensure full-depth coverage.
While insects are my main focus, I do photograph flowers occasionally, especially when experimenting with macro techniques. They can make fantastic subjects for stacking, and the intricate details revealed through the process can be stunning.
Hope that helps, and best of luck with your macro photography!
Hi Stewart, I’ll try to sneak in one more question. The insect images are outstanding, with lots of detail. What is your method for moving the focus point around a scene, be it an insect or flower, to ensure you’re getting enough of the subject in focus? Do you begin and end at certain specific points and how far to move the focus point each time?
Hi, Stewart. Thanks for doing this! I love your videos, and they’ve helped me a lot with things like stacking and spiders. But I can’t seem to find anything of yours on butterflies. Are you planning to get into butterflies in the future, or have I missed something?
I use in-camera focus bracketing to ensure I capture enough detail throughout the subject. My method starts by focusing just in front of where I want the stack to begin, then taking multiple shots as the focus gradually moves through the subject until the back is completely out of focus.
The focus moves a fraction of a millimeter at a time, which is crucial for fine details in macro photography. The more images you capture, the better—this gives you flexibility in post-processing, allowing you to choose the best frames for the final focus stack. I’d always recommend taking more shots than you think you need because you can remove extra images later, but if you don’t capture enough, you’ll have to redo the entire sequence.
Thanks for your support! I’m really glad my videos have helped you with stacking and spiders.
As for butterflies… you haven’t missed anything—I don’t photograph them! To be honest, I find them a bit boring and unappealing compared to other macro subjects. That said, I might give them a try this year and see if I can change my mind.
They’re beautiful, of course, but they just don’t excite me the way jumping spiders or other tiny creatures do. If I do end up photographing them, I’ll be sure to share my thoughts and results!
Hi Stewart, thanks for your detailed and helpful reply to my focussing question last night. I will be checking out your web site for more advice on macro photography.