The photographer is looking for generalized feedback about the aesthetic and technical qualities of their image.
Description
One of my favorites from the year as it had defied attempts in previous years to capture and render it as I wished. With new gear and a better mastery of software, I got it earlier this year.
Specific Feedback
All comments welcome!
Technical Details
Askar FRA400 astrograph (refracting telescope), ASI2600 cooled color camera, SkyWatcher EQM 35 tracker, ASIAIR controller. Four hours of 30-second subframes, dark, flat and bias calibration frames, processed in PixInsight. Pixinsight was used to do processing stuff that is mind-boggling, but made easy by recent advancements. And a small final tweak with PS on this one.
Diane, way out of my wheelhouse. All I can do is appreciate your technical expertise on these “otherworldly” images…Excellent…
I recall the movie “Andromeda Strain” with the fine actors Arthur Hill, David Wayne, and James Olson…
I’m with Paul on this. I have no understanding of what you did (except maybe a “small final tweak in PS”, but I know what impresses me and this does.
Thanks, @Paul_Breitkreuz, @Jim_Gavin and @Dave_Douglass! Dave, probably not a wall-hanger here – this technical stuff is a pleasure to pull off but (like tennis) there is always someone better. And I think I can do a little better in the next few months when this object comes into the right part of the sky again – IF I can get a clear dark night. Equipment is better-tuned now and software even better!
But the total solar eclipse is hanging! That was a rewarding tour de force. And if I can get a tracked total lunar eclipse in good skies, it will be too.
It may not be apparent to most folks what it takes to pull off these “deep sky” astro shots (smaller objects than the sun or moon), so I put a modest tutorial on my web site – at the bottom of the tutorial list on the right side of the home page.
Thanks, @Gill_Vanderlip, @Stephen_Stanton and @Jim_Gavin! Gill, basically it took aiming a specialized version of a 280mm lens at it, on a tracker that followed it across the sky for several hours, then using a bunch of fancy processing to reduce noise on a very dark image, then tweaking the histogram to bring out details. A lot of technical work, but the only way to bring out the image.
Diane, I am amazed at the clarity. I just purchased a Celestron NexStar Evolution 8" and hoping to capture some deep space and galaxy images this summer. Way too Cold now in CO…
I love the detail and spiral of M31. Coloration is beautiful. The center of the galaxy appear “pearl” like which is stunning.
@Todd_Grivetti – I wasn’t familiar with that rig and did a quick search, and see (if I found the correct one) it is 2032mm focal length. If I’m reading the info correctly, this is an Alt-Az mount which will not follow field rotation as it tracks. For astrophotography you will want to track an object for hours (and the lower end the camera, the more hours needed for a clean final image). And at f/10 you will need long exposures, of maybe 1-4 minutes. That will need a guidescope and guide camera to correct for periodic error in the mount gears, even with the best mount.
What camera are you going to use with it? How are you going to mount it? Even with a full-frame camera, 2000mm will fill the FOV with a very small galaxy or star cluster. I have a 400mm refractor and need to add a reducer to bring the focal length to 280mm to get all of M31 in the frame. Longer focal lengths are great for birds but for astro the resolution is limited by the atmosphere and past about 400-600mm, long focal lengths won’t get a sharper or more detailed image.
If you are hoping to get into astrophotography, this is a great time. Gear and software have gotten so much better in the last few years. I use a special astro camera and control everything except the final tweaks of the mount to point exactly at the center of rotation, and focus, with a small onboard computer, the ASIAIR (and I could control focus with it if I added an autofocuser to the optical train). It does the guiding with uncanny ease and it is all controlled from my iPhone or iPad, from inside the house – where it is warmer.
The soft glow of the center of M31 is thanks to the newest processing software. PixInsight is the gorilla in the room and about 100 times easier to use than it was a few years ago.
Hi Diane,
I have both a Canon EOS-R Mirrorless and EOS T-6. Likely will use the EOS-R. I have a T-ring adapter for the scope and eventually will purchase the Wedge that goes with this Telescope to convert it into a EQ mount. I’ve watched several Celestron videos on how to do this as well as other astrophotographers who have this set up.
I might have to add a reducer as well. I have also looked at the cooled ASI294MC cameras as well, which may be another investment. I have use both Canon cameras with my 10-24 mm Tamron with 60 sec exposures on the Milky way, which weren’t too bad and not a lot of star trails. Stacking them seems to help with clarity and sharpening. Just a lot of practice and patience!!!
Those cameras will certainly give you a good start. I got the cooled ASI 2600 MC and haven’t bothered to compare it to my R5, but in my warmer climate it might not be a very meaningful comparison.
You will soon find the wedge desirable. When you start exposing for dim deep sky objects, to avoid blowing out stars you’ll need to do underexposed individual fames and use calibration and stacking software to combine them. At f/10 you’ll soon find the need to do guiding. It takes many hours of total exposure with the field holding steady. Then you will need to calibrate each and combine into a final image with low enough noise to stretch the histogram.
Thanks for sharing it!