Interested in what shutter speed bird shooters would normally pick for this situation? To broaden this, what would your f-stop/ss/iso settings be typically?
(If backgrounds have been removed, etc. please be honest with your techniques to help others learn)
1/1000 sec @ f/6.3, ISO 160, 483mm focal length
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dougbluntphotos
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I really like this shot. Great close-up look at the stork with a nice pose and good detail. Looks as if you had some nice lighting. For what it’s worth, I’d have probably had the same shutter speed and f-stop as you. I usually shoot at auto-ISO with those settings; if enough light, f7.1, which is probably the sweet spot for my Sigma 150-600. I’ve tried full manual many times, but I’m not yet comfortable with it. It seems to me that there are three variables and with NR software, and if the ISO isn’t too high, that’s the variable most easily fixed in post-processing. You can’t fix a slow shutter speed and it’s tough to fix the DOF.
I like this image a lot, Doug. I don’t think I’ve seen a stork photograph where it’s actually wading. You nailed the focal point right where it needed to be. As to your question, I almost never go under iso 640 for bird photography and am usually at 800 or above. My 7DII and the noise reduction software I use easily handle up to iso 1600 and aren’t really bothered to 2500 if I get the exposure right (it doesn’t work as well if I underexpose significantly). 1/1000 is a good shutter speed for such a large bird-you shouldn’t get any significant blur and your image shows that you had no problem hand holding at that shutter speed. As for aperture, if I had the time to react, I’d probably go to f/11 for this large a bird at this close a range-I’m normally at f/8 if I’m not really fighting low light conditions. In summary, for this shot, I’d probably be at iso 640, f/11 and let the shutter speed be whatever was necessary for the exposure (probably close to where you were).
One other thing I’ll mention is that if you can, bird and wildlife images in general are more powerful if you can get the camera as close as possible to the critter’s eye level. It creates a more intimate feel. That said, a lot of refuges force you onto dikes or raised walkways where that’s very difficult and you have to take what you can get.
Thank you … to both guys! Really helpful info…for this shooter who is relatively new to bird photography. You both made good sense. Boy…when you’re a landscape shooter by background, and suddenly you’re trying your hand at moving subjects, it’s a completely different thought process!!! Fortunately, my new A7R4 has memory settings, where I can quickly switch off landscapes to birds, without thinking too much
I’m sure that if you ask a question to ten professional photographers you’ll get ten different answers. At the Nature Photographers of the Pacific Northwest conference yesterday, professional photographer Chris Balmer strongly advocated using auto-ISO. His idea was to be as efficient as possible, prepared to get the shot and not be fiddling around with the camera while the moment passes. He also advocated single point focus, continuous focus, and continuous shooting modes. In camera he sets a limit for the ISO (6400 it seemed). For bird photography he seemed to set a fast shutter speed and an f-stop to obtain his desired depth of field.
Thanks for sharing that info, Allen. It’s helpful to know what the experts do with their settings, especially when moving into a new genre like I am. Thanks again!
