NPN is likely the wrong place to be asking this, but I’ll toss it out in case there’s experience in the group.
I’m using a Nikon D7200 w/ Nikon’s 70-180 macro, setting up a shooting project using a pair of Nikon SB-800 strobes linked wirelessly. Circumstances dictate that it will work best to also use a wireless release.
Any particular recommendations on which wireless release?
Probably a naive question, but is there any reason to be concerned about interference between the wireless strobe signals and a wireless release?
Moderators can delete this thread since I was able to track down answers elsewhere-
Nikon ML-L3 release and no problem with signals, but add a Nikon SU-800 Wireless strobe controller for strobe controls and adjustment from behind the camera.
What the heck, it’s only money! I’ve already conceived of a couple of ways to use the gear in the field, so all is not lost.
It is nice to see this post from you. I just recently placed an order for some lights myself. Since I work with Canon equipment these days, I went with two Canon Speedlites and a matching controller (along with an umbrella set). I plan to use this for an indoor project I will be getting into very soon.
I use the Canon RC-6 wireless remote controller to trip the shutter on my camera. Like you, I was also worried if this would interfere with the flash operation. However, it turns out that the remote controller uses infrared, whereas the speedlites and controller are radio based. So all should be good.
This is the first time I am working with lights. Wish me luck.
Nice to find another familiar and worthy face here on the new NPN!
Let the fun begin!
Perhaps the most important fact of life to reconcile is the relationship between light source and subject distance. It’s squared rather than direct! In other words, if you double the distance you need four times as much light, or if you triple the distance you need nine times as much light. Conversely, if you cut the distance in half you need 1/4 as much light.
Dunno if you have a handheld light meter, but if so it will be your best friend if it includes a strobe meter. You can get by without it working with TTL camera adjustments, but that’s more involved. I shoot multiple strobe setups strictly on manual or Aperture, keeping in mind the max flash synch speed inherent in each camera.
Appreciate these tips Hank. I am sure I have a lot to learn in this space. If I run into some issues that I cannot resolve I might reach out to you for advice.
Lighting is not black magic (contrary to some claims), but there are most certainly some principles worth knowing and playing with. You’ll find the range of typical on-camera strobes really limited if you want to maximize DOF with small apertures, but there are work-arounds.
I’ve already conceived of a couple of ways to use the gear in the field, so all is not lost.
