Very nice capture of these unusual and interesting conditions. I love the way the most interesting part of the spray is against the lighter area of sky. You chose a good SS to show the action. I wonder about lightening the two small waves right at the bottom, to make them a little less prominent.
James, you’ve got some fine surf action here. I too like the splashing/blowing above that main breaker. The action in front of that breaker is great also. The splashing in the lower ~1/3 rd looks oversharpened. I also think that getting a bit more contrast between the splashing above the horizon and the sky behind would be good. Your shutter speed does a good job of freezing the action.
Great action James. Couple of thoughts – waves get more interesting when you shoot them from the side, as opposed to head on. Also if possible, move higher up the beach, thereby shooting more down on the action, and putting the dark ocean rather than the horizon and sky behind your waves. This could also help you pop the contrast on more of that great, windblown spray.